I'm Tim Fitzwater, and most lawn care calendars are written for a national audience, which means they're useless in Tampa Bay. Our growing season runs March through November with no real dormancy. Our pest pressure peaks in summer, not spring. And our "winter care" is a light version of what northern lawns need in September. I put together this month-by-month calendar based on seven years of managing turf in Brandon, FL. Print it, put it on your fridge, and you'll know exactly what your lawn needs every month of the year.

February–March: Spring Awakening

The lawn is waking up but isn't fully active yet. This window sets up the entire year — get it wrong and you're chasing weeds and stressed turf for the next eight months.

  • Mowing: Transition from bi-weekly to weekly mid-March as growth picks up.
  • Round 1 fertilizer: Pre-emergent herbicide + slow-release nitrogen (16-4-8). Must go down before soil hits 65°F consistently. Full schedule in Florida fertilization schedule.
  • Irrigation: Increase from winter setting. Test every zone now.
  • Other: Schedule a professional lawn analysis if you don't already have a health program.

April–May: Growth Acceleration

The lawn is in full growth mode. This is also when chinch bug populations start building — the gap between "looking great" in May and "panic call" in July is exactly what we're closing in this window.

  • Mowing: Weekly is essential. No exceptions. Skipping a week means scalping or violating the one-third rule on the next cut.
  • Round 2 fertilizer: Chinch bug preventive + post-emergent weed spot treatment + second feeding. Two months earlier than most operators bother — see chinch bug prevention.
  • Irrigation: Full schedule on. Twice weekly per Hillsborough rules.
  • Other: Best window for sod installation. This is when I'm busiest.

June–August: Summer Intensity

Peak heat, peak storms, peak pest pressure. The goal of the summer rounds isn't to push growth — it's to protect what's there. This is the most common period for things to go wrong on lawns that aren't on a real program.

  • Mowing: Weekly, no exceptions. Always 3.5–4 inches for St. Augustine. Watch for scalping during overgrown rebound cuts.
  • Round 3 fertilizer (June–July): Summer protection formula — lower nitrogen, higher potassium (15-0-15) plus iron for color without pushing soft growth.
  • Round 4 fertilizer (August): Targeted pest treatment. Light feeding only. Heavy feeding now causes brown patch.
  • Irrigation: Maximum schedule within county restrictions. Watch for storm-related skipping with rain sensor.
  • Watch for: Chinch bugs, sod webworms, brown patch, armyworms. Diagnostic guide in why your lawn turns brown in summer.
  • Other: Storm cleanup as needed — seasonal services for hurricane debris.

September–November: Fall Transition

Heat eases, storms taper, growth slows. This is the window for root-building and prepping the lawn for winter.

  • Mowing: Weekly through September. Transition to bi-weekly mid-November as growth slows.
  • Round 5 fertilizer: Fall pre-emergent for cool-season weeds + potassium-heavy formula (5-0-15) for root reserves + annual soil pH test.
  • Irrigation: Reduce watering durations as evapotranspiration drops.
  • Aeration: Schedule core aeration to pair with Round 5 — see when to aerate in Florida.
  • Watch for: Fall armyworms (can wipe out a yard in 48 hours), brown patch fungus.

December–January: Winter Maintenance

The quiet months. Tampa Bay doesn't really hit dormancy — the grass slows down but doesn't stop. This is the observation and planning window.

  • Mowing: Bi-weekly. Some yards need only once a month in January.
  • Round 6 fertilizer: Light assessment round. Spot treatments only if needed.
  • Irrigation: Reduced schedule. Many yards need only one watering day per week in December–January.
  • Watch for: Winter weeds (annual bluegrass, henbit, chickweed) if pre-emergent timing was off.
  • Other: Review soil test results from October. Plan next year's adjustments. Best window for landscaping projects and bed prep.

The Quick-Reference Cheat Sheet

If you're going to print one thing, print this:

  • Feb–Mar: Round 1 (pre-emergent + N), start weekly mowing.
  • Apr–May: Round 2 (chinch bug prevention), full weekly mowing.
  • Jun–Jul: Round 3 (summer protection K+iron), weekly mow no exceptions.
  • Aug: Round 4 (pest targeting), light feed only.
  • Sep–Oct: Round 5 (fall pre-emergent + K + soil test), aerate.
  • Nov: Transition to bi-weekly mowing.
  • Dec–Jan: Round 6 (assessment), bi-weekly mow.

The full rounds-and-products detail is in my Florida lawn fertilization schedule. The whole calendar runs automatically for customers on the Lawn Health Program — I show up, you don't have to think about timing.

Tim's Answers to Common Questions

Do you mow year-round in Florida?
Yes. Weekly April through October, bi-weekly November through March. Florida lawns never fully stop growing — they just slow way down in winter. Skipping winter mowing entirely lets weeds get established, and you pay for it in spring.
When should I start fertilizing?
February or early March. Specifically, before soil consistently reaches 65°F — that's the threshold where spring weeds germinate. Pre-emergent has to go down first or you spend the rest of the year fighting weeds.
Best time to aerate in Tampa Bay?
April–May or September–October — when warm-season grass is actively growing and can heal the openings quickly. Pair aeration with fertilization for maximum benefit.